If it were clean aid on granite, I don't think anyone would bat an eye since theres low potential to damage the route (and even then, surely someone whipping on a cam puts a bit more wear in that spot than someone with a BW placement) Sandstone is soft, and I hear a lot of talk about routes in Zion going from fingers to thin hands, thin hands to hands, over the years. Clearly its not "as soon as it goes free", but "as soon as its been free-solod" is better but still imperfect metric. There's been internal debate in the community about when/if aid routes should transition to free-only routes. This video from the AAC does a good job of showing one method (there are countless variations) of cleaning and lowering, and cleaning and rappelling.Įdit: anyone know if that's John Long narrating the video? Sounds like him. You can clove it to something attached to you or the anchor, feed a bight through the anchors and tie it off before untying yourself, etc. If you need to untie, make sure to secure it. Be careful about untying from your rope.Rappelling is more dangerous, so you should simply lower whenever possible. Consider if you need to rappel at all, in general you can just clean and lower.Redundancy of your own gear isn't necessarily important, redundancy of the bolts to your system is important. What you need to be cautious about is the integrity of the bolts, which you may not be able to fully inspect and don't know the history of. Your concern shouldn't be about relying on a single point of your personal anchor, your gear's history is known to you, you've (presumably) inspected them for wear, and you can expect them to perform safely. If you are interested in checking out a subreddit purely about rock climbing without home walls or indoor gyms, head over to /r/RockClimbing Prior Weekly New Climber Thread posts Prior Friday New Climber Thread posts (earlier name for the same type of thread)Ī handy guide for purchasing your first ropeĪ handy guide to everything you ever wanted to know about climbing shoes! If you see a new climber related question posted in another subeddit or in this subreddit, then please politely link them to this thread.Ĭheck out this curated list of climbing tutorials! Some examples of potential questions could be "How do I get stronger?", "How to select my first harness?", or "How does aid climbing work?" Check out our subreddit wiki that has tons of useful info for new climbers. We were all new to climbing at some point, so be respectful of everyone looking to improve their knowledge. If you're an experienced climber and want to contribute to the community, these threads are a great opportunity for that. This thread will be posted again every Friday so there should always be an opportunity to ask your question and have it answered. In this thread you can ask any climbing related question that you may have. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. Poor quality/low quality submissions may be removed at moderator's discretion. Do not attempt to ask questions by posting an image and asking in the title. Please remember to treat others as you would like to be treated, and remember you are talking to another person.Īsk questions in the stickied threads.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |